Entries Tagged 'FAQ' ↓

 How often should I change my furnace filter?

Answer : If you use a 1″ disposable filter you should check it once a month and change as needed. A 1″ pleated filter picks up more dirt and should be checked monthly and replaced about every 3 months. A high efficient pleated filter that is 4″ to 7″ thick can be replaced yearly. If you run your fan constantly as with a variable furnace you may have to change filters twice as often as mentioned because of increased total daily air flow. Don’t forget air conditioning season – it’s the same filter to be checked!

           I have a humidifier pad. How do I keep it clean?

Answer: You can clean your humidifier pad by soaking it in a 50/50 solution of water and vinegar. [Alternate answer] It may be acceptable to use the vinegar soak on old rotating sponge type humidifiers; however, it would not be recommended on the newer evaporative panel humidifiers. The newer evaporative panel humidifiers have a chemical coating on the panel material which helps disperse the water evenly over the panel. The chemical coating should not be removed. The water panel in the newer humidifiers should be replaced once a year or more often in special cases.

 

 What are my guidelines for setting a thermostat while on vacation?

 

Answer: When you go on vacation be careful not to set the home thermostat at too low of a setting. The heat exchanger of your furnace can be irreparably damaged if the temperature of the air coming into the furnace is too low. Typically furnace manufacturer’s recommend a minimum return air temperature between 55 - 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Check with your particular manufacturer to determine how low you can set your thermostat.

 

 What is SEER and how should I use that information to select an air conditioner?

 

Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER): For residential homes, some countries set minimum requirements for energy efficiency. In the United States, the efficiency of air conditioners is often (but not always) rated by the SEER. The higher the SEER rating, the more energy efficient is the air conditioner. The SEER rating is the BTU of cooling output during its normal annual usage divided by the total electric energy input in watt-hours (W·h) during the same period.

 

Today, it is rare to see systems rated below SEER 9 in the United States, since older units are being replaced with higher efficiency units. The United States now requires that residential systems manufactured in 2006 have a minimum SEER rating of 13 (although window-box systems are exempt from this law, so their SEER is still around 10). Substantial energy savings can be obtained from more efficient systems. For example by upgrading from SEER 9 to SEER 13, the power consumption is reduced by 30% (equal to 1 - 9/13). It is claimed that this can result in an energy savings valued at up to $US 300 per year (depending on the usage rate and the cost of electricity). In many cases, the lifetime energy savings are likely to surpass the higher initial cost of a high-efficiency unit.

 

 How can I get my second floor cooler in the summer?

 

: Install an attic vent fan (not to be confused with a whole house fan) this will automatically run in hot weather and cool down the attic. The cooler attic will help keep the second floor cooler or turn on the furnace blower for constant circulation at the thermostat ( fan on). When the first floor is cool and the a/c shuts off and the blower in the furnace will continue to send air upstairs. This will balance out the temperature from first to second floor.

 

NOTE from Barry A.Sherer, CGA, Owner of Sherer Heating And Air Conditioning, LTD, www.shererheatingandair.com:

 

“Having been an HVAC contractor since the mid seventies, I too, have many stories, some of which can save lives. I am now a Home Performance with ENERGY STAR certified “Shell Specialist” and have learned to look at the home and how it functions as a whole.

I have installed several attic ventilation fans but one summer day I received a call from one of my long time customers with a problem with their carbon monoxide detector going off. Now, I thought these people were nuts for calling me in the middle of the summer because their first finger was pointing at the furnace I just put in earlier in the spring.

To make a long story short and not go into all the CO checks I put that basement in, I found that on hot summers days when the attic got hot and the vent fan came on, it ran for hours at a time with no rest. Because the A/C was on, all the doors and windows were naturally closed. This fan, running at 1,100 cfm was actually putting the attic in a negative pressure when it ran. The problem was that there was not enough soffit ventilation to make up this negative air pressure.

After it ran long enough the fan started to pull air from other places, which happened to be from the basement which was connected to the attic by way of the gaps around the chimney, the plumbing pipes and the holes around all the numerous wire penetrations into the attic. This fan actually pulled the hole house into a negative pressure and the easiest route for the air to be made up was to back-draft the water heater. This was one case where the homeowner may have saved his own life by not only buying the carbon monoxide detector, but by also calling the professioal to find out how to solve the problem. 

 

Since I have become an ENERGY STAR contractor, I have had the priveledge to be the contractor to have the “attic fans” be included in the worst case senario checks when the home inspections are performed.”

Consumers are often bombarded with advertisements touting a vast array of different brand names, rebates and special offers for air conditioners. Air conditioning has become a very technical industry, making the task of choosing all the more complicated for consumers. But as with all major investments, homeowners must spend some time and do their homework to make sure they are making the best decision.

Q: When I called someone out to have my 17-year-old air conditioner fixed, the repair person said it was beyond repair and quoted me a price to have it replaced. This is a pretty well-known company, but I do not like to be rushed into making a decision, especially one that involves thousands of dollars.

A: It’s always a good idea to get another opinion: pick up the phone on the spot and call another heating and air company, describe the problem you’re having and tell them the make, model, efficiency ratings and size of the new unit the repair person is trying to sell you, and see what they say. There’s a chance it could be fixed, though it’s a safe bet that you’ll save money by replacing any unit 15 years or older with a new efficient unit. But you need more information and options to make a wise decision.

Q: What about brand names? Are some brands really better than others or are we just paying extra for a name?

A: There are several good brands on the market. Most heating and air contractors deal with one or two lines, but can service all major brands. In fact, many name brands are manufactured by the same company. There are more important factors than brand names to consider when comparing systems.

These include the following:

1. Compare the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER) — a number from 10 to 16. (Warning: anything rated under 10 SEERS is below current standards and not acceptable in new construction). Some companies are still pushing 9 and 10 SEER units in the remodel market at bargain-basement prices because they’re already obsolete.) The higher the SEER value, the more expensive the investment, the longer the warranties and the lower the utility and repair bills. The lower the SEER, the lower the initial cost, the shorter the warranties and the lower the utility company rebate. They are also much more costly to run.

2. Consider how long you plan to live in the house. If you intend to move in a year or two, a high efficiency unit may not be needed. But if you expect to live there three years or longer, it’s good to know how soon you can expect to recapture the extra $1,000 or so you spend when you buy the higher efficiency unit, and see real savings in ever — rising utility costs and repairs from then on.

4. Check out the contractor you choose to install the unit. Is he or she willing to sit down and spend some time with you to explain all your options and answer your questions? Is he or she properly licensed and insured? How long has this company been doing remodels? Many contractors switched to remodeling from new construction when the new housing market declined, but there’s a lot of difference.

Remodeling specialists are more attuned to accommodating homeowners’ special needs. For example, some can design systems which let the homeowner move the outside unit away from the pool, enclose it in a closet or enable them to shut down registers in an extra bedroom without the adverse affects this would cause on a system designed for a new home. What kind of references does this company have? Take the time to check them out. Are their former customers happy with the job they did and their responsiveness and service afterwards? Would they recommend them to friends or hire them again?

Q: Why is the price difference between an 11 SEER and a 12 SEER system so much less than the difference between a 12 SEER and a 13 SEER unit?

A: It takes a different technique, extra parts and more time and expertise to hook up a 13 or greater SEER unit than an 11 or 12 SEER. But if you plan to live in a house three or more years, it’s smart to spend a little more now than you may have intended to safeguard against some problems that may come up later, to escalating energy costs, to repair bills.

Q: How can I clean and do routine maintenance on my air conditioning unit?

A: Heating and air conditioning companies often offer maintenance servicing for both air conditioning units and furnaces.

“We recommend annual air conditioning check-ups in the spring and furnace check-ups every fall. Although regular checkups will not absolutely guarantee that a unit will continue to work perfectly throughout the season, they will reveal most small problems that can lead to major, far more expensive problems if left unattended.”

Homeowners can do the following things to maintain their air conditioning units:

1. The first thing to check before turning on your unit is to make sure the condensing unit located outside is not covered up. The unit needs to draw air into the system in order to have something to cool and circulate inside, but the process is hindered if it cannot pull in enough outside air. (We’re amazed how many homeowners call because their air conditioner isn’t cooling, only to find they forgot they had temporarily stacked lawn furniture, bags of leaves and lawn clippings, around their unit over the winter.)
2. Some people intentionally cover their condenser to protect it from the elements during the winter, although these units require no protection since they are designed for outdoor installation.
3. Run your air conditioner for a few minutes in late spring or early summer, before you need it. If you wait until the first hot day to discover it isn’t working, you’ll find yourself on a waiting list, sweltering for days before an air conditioning specialist can come to fix it.
4. Change the filters regularly. Dirty filters restrict air flow, reduce efficiency and worse case, can cause the evaporator to ice up. Disposable fiberglass filters should be replaced. Electrostatic or electronic filters need to be washed regularly.
5. Be sure all access panels are secure, with all the screws in place.
6. Clean obvious obstructions such as newspaper and leaves from around the exterior of the unit.
7. Be sure the thermostat is set in the cooling mode. Just setting the dial below room temperature will not activate the air conditioning if it is set in the heat mode.
8. A thoroughly cleaned air conditioning unit will operate at top efficiency. However, homeowners are strongly discouraged from using a hose and water to try to clean it themselves because of the very serious risk of electrical shock and possible shorting of electrical components.

I will also outline the steps of a professional furnace check-up.

1. Inspect thermostat for proper operation.
2. Inspect filter, and change or clean as needed.
3. Check all electrical components and controls.
4. Oil motors as needed.
5. Inspect heat exchanger for possible cracks. A crack in the heat exchanger will introduce carbon monoxide into the living space.
6. Check air flow. If diminished, it may be necessary to clean the evaporator coil.
7. Check air fuel mixture, where appropriate.

Who wants to think about the heating system when it’s warm and sunny outside? But winter is never that far away, and having a heating system service done now will ensure that the heat will come on when it is finally needed.

Q: When I called a heating and air contractor to fix my 17-year-old furnace, he told me it was beyond repair and quoted me a “special” price to have it replaced, if I signed his contract that day. I don’t like being pressured into making a decision, especially one that involves thousands of dollars.

A: Unfortunately, we are hearing more and more stories of high pressure and even scare sales tactics these days, which is totally unnecessary when someone is offering a valuable product or service at a fair price. Of course, you should always get competitive estimates on costly home improvements. Contact another heating and air company, describe the problem, tell them the make, model, size and efficiency ratings of the new unit the repair person is trying to sell you, and see what they say. In this case, you probably would save money by replacing a unit that is over 15 years old, but you certainly need more information and options to make a wise decision with which you can feel comfortable.

Q: Last year when we turned on the furnace for the first time one morning, it smelled so bad we were worried it was carbon monoxide or something else was wrong. Is this normal?

A: The odor is normal because dust collects on the heat exchanger over the summer, and turning it on for the first time simply burns the dust off. Carbon monoxide is odorless, so you could not smell it. Homeowners should install a good carbon monoxide detector to make sure none of this deadly poison is present in their homes. When you turn on your furnace for the first time leave the windows open to dispel the odor quickly. This is also the ideal time to schedule a maintenance appointment to make sure your furnace will work properly when you need it.

Q: What does a furnace maintenance check-up consist of?

A: We perform the following steps:

• Inspect thermostat for proper operation.
• Inspect filter and change or clean as needed.
• Check all electrical components and controls.
• Oil motors as needed.
• Inspect heat exchanger for possible cracks. A crack in the heat exchanger will introduce carbon monoxide into the living space.
• Check air flow. If diminished, it may be necessary to clean the evaporator coil.
• Check air fuel mixture, where appropriate.

Q: Is there anything a homeowner can do to assure proper operation and safety of their furnace?

A: Yes. The first thing to check before turning on your unit is to make sure nothing flammable has been stored next to the furnace over the summer (we frequently find lawn mowers, gas cans, etc. stacked against the furnace in the garage!) Use the following as a guide:

• Run your heater for a few minutes now, before you need it. If you wait until the first cold morning to discover is isn’t working, you’ll find yourself on a waiting list before a heating and air specialist can come to fix it.
• Change the filters regularly. Dirty filters restrict air flow, reducing efficiency and worse case, can cause the heat exchanger to overheat. Disposable fiberglass filters should be replaced. Electrostatic or electronic filters need to be washed regularly.
• Be sure all access panels are secure, with all the screws in place.
• Be sure the thermostat is set in the heating mode. Just setting the dial above room temperature will not activate the heat if it is still set in the air conditioning mode.

Q: The home we just purchased has a heat pump and it doesn’t seem to warm up as quickly as our previous house which had a gas furnace.

A: A heat pump is simply an air conditioner with the ability to reverse the flow of refrigerant (freon), and gas furnaces are simply more efficient than air conditioners. If your thermostat is set at 70-degrees, your heat pump will discharge air at approximately 20-degrees above thermostat setting while a gas furnace produces approximately 40-degrees hotter air, naturally warming the area much faster.

Q: I started my furnace and set it at the temperature I needed. It ran fine and did reach the temperature, but after a few minutes it kicked on again. It would run for approximately ten minutes and shut off. The furnace is about 20 years old, and I had it cleaned and serviced last year.

A: You need to have a heating and air conditioning expert come look at your furnace. However, do not be surprised if they recommend you get a new heating system. It may be much more efficient and economical than an older one that may continue to break down.

Although heating and air conditioning companies usually charge for service calls whether you choose to have them repair the system or not, they almost always give free estimates on installing or replacing systems. If you decide to buy a new one, don’t automatically sign a contract with the first company that gives you an estimate, even if you think you want to hire them to do the job. New equipment is too large an investment to make a snap decision, and reputable firms will respect your desire to do your homework and get comparable bids.

Be sure to talk to at least three different companies and carefully compare their bids for the size of system recommended, manufacturer warranties on both parts and labor, and any extra ductwork they may recommend before making a final choice. Collecting competitive bids is always the best way to make sure you have all the information you need to choose the best product, as well as, the service provider you would prefer working with.