Entries Tagged 'health' ↓

Furnace Filter Categories

There are different definition, categories, and ratings for HVAC filtering media. AccuMax Inc. will do its best to take the confusion out of this and help you better understand these different categories and ratings so you may choose for yourself. First of all, HVAC furnace filters are rated by a MERV value. MERV stands for Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value and is a method developed by ASHRAE (the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers) to test the effectiveness of HVAC air filters. The higher MERV number the higher the effectiveness of the HVAC furnace filters to block certain particles and compounds. There are three distinct categories for HVAC air filters. These are:

• Mechanical Air Filters - This is your typical off-the-shelf throw-away HVAC filter. This filter collects particles in its filtering medium. After it collects so many particles you simply remove it, throw it away, and replace it with another. Note that some mechanical filter media’s are washable. HEPA (High-efficiency particulate air filters) are also in this category. There are three sub-categories for mechanical air filters. These are:

1. A1 and A2 - these are the standard 1 inch thick filters. These are typically rated MERV 1 to MERV 4.
2. B filter media’s are 2 to 4 inches thick. These filters typically range from MERV 1 to MERV 12.
3. C filter media’s represent the HEPA filters. MERV ratings for these filters exceed MERV 13 and are the most expensive.

• Electronic Air Cleaners - The electronic air cleaner does not qualify for a MERV rating because its efficiency can change depending on how clean it is. It is important that electronic air cleaners are cleaned on a biannual basis (more frequently in dusty environments) for best performance. Additionally, these work best when used in conjunction with a mechanical filtering media.
• Gas Phase Absorption - uses carbon to absorb odors and gases from the air stream. This media is not very effective at removing particulates and is used in mainly laboratory and industrial settings.

It is important to understand that the better the mechanical filter is at filtering the air the faster it will load up (or become clogged with particles). This can affect the performance of your equipment and the frequency of filter changes. Unless your dwelling is particle and dust-free do not believe that the filter will last for three months despite the air conditioner filter manufacturers claims. Additionally it is imperative that the filter has the proper fit with no air leaks around the frame which holds the filter.

Now that you understand HVAC air filters, how they work to eliminate particles from the air, and the different types and ratings for HVAC filters, you need to take action to set up a planned filter changing routine. It is recommended that HVAC air filters at least be checked every 30 days for excessive load up of particles. If the filter is excessively loaded on a thirty day check then you need to narrow the time 3 weeks or relax that schedule if they are not loaded up. Some modern digital thermostats come with a air filter reminder feature that will flash based on number of days or runtime of the fan. These thermostats help you remember to change or check your HVAC air filter on regular intervals.

In closing, remember that HVAC air filters are very necessary not only to keep particles out of the air inside the dwelling but also to protect the equipment. If you don’t have a filter in the system somewhere or there is a filter that is excessively clogged the HVAC equipment will fail and you will lose your HVAC comfort system until corrective action is taken. Set an air filter schedule and stick to it so that you keep your air clean and the equipment protected.

The indoor air we breathe is often dirtier and more polluted than the visible pollution we endure outside. Poor indoor air quality can cause such problems as asthma, respiratory allergies and aggravated emphysema.

Heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) systems have been shown to act as a collection source for a variety of contaminants that have the potential to affect health, such as mold, fungi, bacteria and microscoptic dust particles.

Research by the EPA has demonstrated that HVAC system cleaning may allow systems to run more efficiently by removing debris from sensitive mechanical components. Clean, efficient duct and vent systems are less likely to break down, have a longer life span and generally operate more effectively than dirty systems.

There are two ways of duct and vent cleaning. One system is connected into the ducting to provide suction. A high pressure air hose is passed through the ducting to remove the particles from the interior. The other system uses a large specialized vacuum attached to a hose and a brushing system that is run through the ducting. Both systems are effective when operated by properly trained personnel.

A proper cleaning should include the following: cleaning of all registers, inside the ducting, and the interior of the heating and ventilating system. The furnace fan must be cleaned and if you have air conditioning or a heat pump, the coils inside the system must also be thoroughly cleaned. Finally, a disinfectant can be fogged through the cleaned system to eliminate any mold, bacteria and dust mites that might remain. Proper cleaning of a home should take a minimum of three to five hours, depending on the size of the house. If the home has more than one heating and cooling system, or the system is located on the roof, it can take longer. Most duct cleaning companies base their price upon square footage and/or the number of registers, systems and levels to be cleaned and charge between $90 - $125 per hour to properly clean a duct system.

If a much lower price is offered, a consumer needs to make sure that the price includes a thorough cleaning, including registers, the inside of the ductwork and all the fans and coils. Charging extra for cleaning fans and coils is unreasonable because those steps are mandatory for having a properly cleaned system.

Dry air in your home can make your throat feel dry and cause or aggravate respiratory ailments. During extremely cold weather, your home loses humidity to the outdoors and may drop to as low as 5 percent. Optimal comfort is considered to be 40-55 percent humidity. Inadequate humidification during cold weather is one of the major causes of respiratory infections. The heating season causes people to begin having repeated attacks of winter colds.

Warm air sucks moisture out of people and furniture. That’s when throats start feeling scratchy, noses dry out, static electricity sparks start flying and, in drastic cases, furniture gets loose or even falls apart. Dry air results in warping and splitting of furniture, woodwork and hardwood floors.

Dry air also makes you feel colder than the actual thermostat setting because evaporating moisture on your skin causes a cooling effect. A humidifier can help lower heating bills because humidified air feels warmer.

A humidifier can bring moist balance back into your home and health. It’s simply a device that puts water vapor into a home’s air. Depending upon its water output capacity, it may serve a single room or the entire house. Room-size humidifiers are referred to as “tabletop” units. To humidify a whole house, you need either a freestanding cabinet “console” unit or a “central” humidifier that ties into the home’s forced-air heating system.